Troubleshooting
If you are using new rockets and launch equipment and follow the instructions, you will probably not have
any problems.  They generally arise with wear and tear. These are the most common problems and the solutions to them.
Engine Fails to Ignite
First, Remove the safety key and wait one minute before approaching the launch pad.
A. If the igniter worked
If the igniter wasn't touching the propellant, install a new igniter. When you insert the igniter, do not bend the wires.  With the igniter wires sticking straight out, insert the correct sized plug for your engine (color-coded). After the plug is firmly seated, you may then bend the wires. If you bend the wires prior to plug insertion, the bending action has a tendency to draw the igniter tip up and away from the propellant resulting in a misfire.
B. If the igniter did not work
1. Check the batteries. Weak batteries will illuminate the continuity light, but not have enough power
to ignite the igniter.
2. Check the battery contacts in the launch controller. If the batteries rattle when shaking the launch controller, the contacts have compressed. The continuity light won't illuminate. Open the controller and
 spread the contacts out.
3. Check the igniter clips.
a.  Exhaust residue will build up on the clips preventing contact. The continuity light won't illuminate.
Clean the clips with sandpaper or steel wool.
b. If they are touching each other, the system has shorted out. The continuity light will illuminate
Separate the clips and launch.
c. If they are touching the blast deflector plate, the system has shorted out. The continuity light will
illuminate. Separate and launch.
4. Check the igniter.
a. Usually a broken igniter is indicated by the continuity light not illuminating.
b. If the igniter wires near the tip touch each other, the system shorts out. The continuity light will illuminate. Gently separate and reinstall the igniter plug. You may need a new igniter.
Slow Liftoff or Rocket Hangs on the Launch Rod:
A. Clean the launch rod with steel wool. Exhaust residue can build up, preventing the launch lug from
 sliding over it easily.
B. Check the launch rod joint. If the connecting joint has a rough edge, it will catch the launch lug and prevent the rocket from passing that point. Lightly sand the rough edge until smooth.
C. Check the launch lug(s) on the rocket.
If one launch lug is used and is not aligned with the body tube, the direction of the engine thrust is different from the launch rod and causes binding. Visually check the launch lug and make sure it is parallel to the body tube. If two lugs are used and are not aligned with each other properly, the rocket binds on the rod and won't move. This can be checked while placing the rocket on the launch rod. It should slide easily.
Recovery Wadding Problems:
A. Scorched parachute.
Scorched parachute. This occurs when the recovery wadding is crumpled into tight little balls and then inserted into the rocket's body tube. This leaves gaps around the wadding permitting hot ejection gases to slip around the wadding. The correct way is to loosely crumple each sheet into a ball before inserting them. This fills the air gaps properly. To visually check the wadding, look down into the body tube to see if any light can be seen around the edges. If light shows through, repack the wadding.
B. Substituting tissue paper.
Absolutely do not do this!  Recovery wadding is specially treated to be flame retardant. When the ejection charge goes off, it produces hot expanding gases to push the parachute out. Recovery wadding provides a physical barrier between the ejection charge and the parachute to prevent the hot gas from melting it. If ordinary tissue paper is used, it will catch fire and burn as it floats to the ground.
Recovery System Failures:
A. Nose cone doesn't come off. Possible problems are:
1. Too much recovery wadding or packed too tight.
2. Parachute/streamer binding in the body tube, not packed small enough.
3. Engine not tight enough in the friction fit engine mount, add more tape to tighten.
4. Nose cone is too tight. Sand the shoulder. It should slide easily. Also check that parts of the shock cord or shroud lines are not caught by the nose cone.
B. Parachute/streamer fails to open:
1. Cold weather. Plastic wants to stay in its confined shape when cold. Pack the system just prior to launch.
2. Hot/humid weather. This causes the plastic to stick to itself. Dust with baby powder before packing.
3. Insufficient amount of recovery wadding or wadding crumpled too tightly. Heat from the ejection charge melted the recovery system causing its failure.
Excessive Wind Drift:
Even when flying within the wind limits, lightweight rockets will drift significant distances. To reduce the effects of drift beyond what can be done by tilting the launch rod, the recovery system needs to be modified to descend quicker. Various methods are:
A. Cutting a spill hole. The top of Estes' 12", 18" and 24" plastic parachutes have a circle that can be cut out. This allows air to flow through it quicker, increasing the descent rate. The drawback is that the modification to the parachute is permanent.
B. Reefing the parachute. Gather the parachute's shroud lines together at the mid-point and wrap a piece of tape around it. This prevents the parachute from opening fully, thus increasing the descent rate. For calm days, remove the tape. This modification is temporary.
C. Switch to a streamer. Streamers generally descend quicker than parachutes. If the rocket has a parachute, remove it and attach a streamer. Using snap swivels is a great way to make recovery systems easily interchangeable.
A note to the wise. 
Some of the rockets are extremely high flyers.  The higher the rocket goes, the more subject it will be to wind drift.  Make sure you have plenty of room to fly it. The bigger and more open the field, the better.  Also, we highly recommend the Transrock Rocket Locator.  It can help prevent you from losing a prized rocket.
Launch Pad - Standoff Won't Keep Rocket From Touching The Blast Deflector Plate
A.   When this happens, the igniter will short out. Many rockets don't have swept back fins that support the rocket on the launch pad. To remedy this, place the rocket on the launch rod and hold it about four inches above the blast deflector plate. Take a piece of masking tape and wrap it around the launch rod just below the bottom launch lug. The rocket will rest on the tape, preventing it from bottoming out.
B. Another option is to slide a few spent engine casings over the launch rod to create a taller stand off.

Keeping the Fins on Until the Glue Dries:
The best glue to use is carpenter's wood glue.  This glue will dry quicker.
Fin gluing techniques.
To create a tight bond, first apply a thin layer of glue to the root edge of the fin and work it gently into the pores and grains of the wood. Repeat this for all the fins. By the time you finish the last fin (1-2 minutes), the first fin has become tacky if not nearly dry.  Apply another thin layer to the first fin.  Hold the fin's rear part of the root edge in position on the body tube and with gentle pressure, rotate the fin up until the entire root edge has made contact. Hold the fin in position for 10 seconds. This rotating action acts like a squeegee to force out any trapped air at the connection which will weaken the joint. Release the fin and you'll find it secure. It is best to hold the rocket vertically when the fins are drying. Stand the rocket on its nose (without the nose cone in place).